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3 November 2018

Mortlach 1997 18yo by Wilson & Morgan

Wilson & Morgan are one of my favourite independent bottlers, especially because of their barrel selection. No need to turn around it: this Mortlach is incredible. It was finished on Marsala cask, but it didn’t overshadow the true character of the spirit.

It took some time and air in the bottle to fully open up, but when I tasted it a few days ago to write this review, it was an intense experience of flavours:

Tasting notes


Colour

Golden

Nose

Grapes, raisins, full and sweet, syrupy, apples, spicy oak and ruby port.

Palate

Dry and full, supper in a bottle. It starts crisp and Speyside-like with fresh apples. Then it transforms into cooked apples, leather and spicy oak, before it changes again into Christmas cake, grapes and apple syrup.

Finish

The finish is full and drying and incredibly beautiful: raisins, nuts, chocolate, honey and an old bottle of port.

As you can see from the picture, the colour is surprisingly golden for such a bold sherried dram. However, this does reflect the start of the palate, which reminds me of dry and fruity Speyside dram like, for example, a Glenlivet Nadurra.

One thing is for sure, I will continue to enjoy this multi-layered gem, and it’ll be disappointing to see it emptied one day. But I also wonder what the future will bring, when I’m going to choose another dram from the W&M Barrel Selection.

Are you familiar with them? What’s your recommendation?